I’d say surfing is when I come closest to death. Just being in the waves and having tons of pressure pounding down on you. If you get in the wrong current, it’s not easy. But also when I’m skydiving, I’m always thinking “Wow, if this doesn’t open, there’s no chance. There’s zero possibility of survival.” Every form we sign at the bottom says “You may die.” In bold print.  Everything was in normal print, and then bold print at the bottom of each of the ten pages, “You may die.” You have to initial at each page and you’re like “I’m really starting to get the sense this is a bad idea.”

But it’s a really great experience to say, “Okay. Fear is there, yes, but I’m just going to run towards it and get past it.” It’s empowering to get that surge of adrenaline when you’re doing something you know you shouldn’t be. It’s almost indescribable. Afterwards,  you also have the sense of accomplishment.

And then the experience itself is just so magical. You see more things, you feel more things. With all that adrenaline going through your body, it becomes a more memorable experience, whatever it is. Everything just seems more magnified.

Related Posts